Wanderlust and Well-Being: Off the Beaten Path – Lake Bled


I am reluctant to call a place that is packed with tourists “Off the Beaten Path.” But I feel like I can make an exception for Lake Bled because most Americans have never been there (and may never have even heard of it).

There are easy ways to maximize your experience there, despite the crowds. Plus, it is strikingly beautiful, so it rates a visit.

Lake Bled is located in Slovenia, which lies just east of Italy and south of Austria. If your mind’s eye conjures up a mashup of Italian vineyards and the Alpine foothills of Austria, then you have it just about right.

Slovenia is a small country, rich in mountains and forests, with a population of just 2.1 million people. It has only been an independent state since 1991, when it declared independence and separated from Yugoslavia after a brief 10-day war.

While Minnesota boasts more than 10,000 lakes and countless islands, Slovenia has only a handful of lakes, which all together contain exactly one island, and that is in Lake Bled.

Lake Bled is situated in the mountainous north of Slovenia, with the thousand-year-old Bled Castle perched majestically on a cliff overlooking the lake.

In the center of the lake is an island, surrounded by strikingly beautiful, crystal-clear blue/green water. The island is easily accessed by renting traditional wooden row boats (called pletna) from one of several small marinas along the shore. Kayaks, body boards and pletna only, so as not to disturb the peaceful serenity of the place with the sound of motors.

Once you reach the island, you can climb the 99 steps to the base of the 17th-century Assumption of Mary Church, and join with the pilgrims who have been coming here for centuries to ring the wishing bell.

Europeans discovered Lake Bled long ago, and they comprise most of the tourists you will encounter. You will find them in accommodations that range from luxury hotels to tent camping. Yugoslavia’s strongman Josip Broz Tito built a luxurious mansion called Villa Bled to serve as his residence. This mansion is available to rent from the Slovenian government as hotel space or for weddings and events.

If soaking up the view of an aquamarine-colored glacial lake in the mountains is not enough for you, there are countless adventures and activities in and around Lake Bled to occupy your time, including swimming, kayaking, rowing, rafting, biking, canyoning, alpine ziplining, paragliding, museums, medieval castles, fine dining, wine tasting and more. Chief among these is hiking, with scenic trails available at every level of difficulty and duration.

The roads leading to Lake Bled are excellent, but once you arrive, the two-lane road that circumnavigates Lake Bled can be gridlocked. The lake is only 2.7 miles in circumference, so the best way to manage the crowds and access restaurants or lake activities is to simply park your vehicle and walk or bike.  They even have a tourist train that circles the lake if you don’t feel like walking.

The other strategy for managing the crowds is to schedule your visit during the spring or fall. The mayor of Lake Bled got into hot water recently for suggesting that Slovenians defer their visits to shoulder season to reduce crowds during the peak summer season. Slovenians wish they could have the place to themselves, so I think they were just letting off steam about having to share their precious lake with the outside world.

One of the most endearing attractions of the area is Bled Cream Cake, which is hand-made fresh every day at the Hotel Park in Lake Bled. Each seven-by-seven-by-seven-centimeter cube of Bled Cream Cake is made of puff pastry, custard, cream and a dusting of powdered sugar. I will admit to breaking my diet for this and having a second piece.

Rather than drone on about how heavenly Bled Cream Cake is, I thought I would share the recipe so you can enjoy a taste of this “Off the Beaten Path” experience for yourself. 

Bled Cream Cake

Ingredients

For the Pastry Layers:

  • 2 sheets (about 1 pound) of ready-rolled puff pastry
  • Powdered sugar (for dusting)

For the Vanilla Custard:

  • 6.5 cups whole milk
  • 9 large eggs, separated into yolks and whites
  • 2 cups granulated sugar, divided
  • 1.5 cups all-purpose flour
  • 2 tablespoons cornstarch
  • 2 teaspoons vanilla bean paste or extract
  • 2 tablespoons rum (optional, but traditional)
  • 1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar

For the Cream Layer:

  • 3 cups heavy whipping cream, chilled
  • 2 tablespoons powdered sugar

Instructions

  1. Bake the Puff Pastry
    1. Preheat your oven to 390°F.
    2. Line two large baking sheets with parchment paper and lay out your puff pastry sheets.
    3. Prick the entire surface of the pastry sheets thoroughly with a fork to prevent them from puffing up too much. Dust lightly with powdered sugar.
    4. Bake for about 12–15 minutes, or until golden and crispy. Remove and let cool completely.
  2. Make the Vanilla Custard
    1. In a large heavy-bottomed pot, heat the milk and vanilla paste over medium heat until it is just about to simmer.
    2. In a large bowl, whisk the egg yolks and10 ounces of sugar until pale and fluffy. Whisk in the flour and cornstarch until smooth.
    3. Temper the eggs by pouring a ladle of the hot milk into the egg mixture while whisking constantly. Then, pour the egg mixture back into the pot with the remaining milk.
    4. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring continuously, for about 7 minutes until the custard becomes thick and smooth. Remove from heat and stir in the rum if using.
    5. In a separate clean, grease-free bowl, whip the 9 egg whites with the cream of tartar until soft peaks form. Gradually add the remaining 6 ounces of sugar and whip until stiff, glossy peaks form.
    6. Gently fold the whipped egg whites into the warm custard in 3 stages until fully incorporated and airy.
  3. Assemble and Set
    1. Place one baked puff pastry sheet into the bottom of a 9×13-inch baking pan.
    2. Pour the warm custard mixture evenly over the pastry and smooth the top. Let it cool and set in the refrigerator for at least 3 to 4 hours.
    3. Once the custard is firm, whip the heavy cream with 2 tablespoons of powdered sugar to stiff peaks. Spread the whipped cream evenly over the custard layer.
    4. Top with the second baked puff pastry sheet. Gently press down.
  4. Chill and Serve
    1. Refrigerate the assembled cake for at least 8 hours (or overnight) before slicing. Letting it set in the fridge helps the layers fuse and makes it easier to cut into perfect squares.
    2. Before serving, dust the top generously with powdered sugar, cut into individual portions, and serve cold.

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