See all Posts in the Wanderlust – A Travel Blog Series
The “Mouse that Roared” is a book by Leonard Wibberley and a popular Peter Sellers movie set in the fictional European Duchy of Grand Fenwick.
Despite centuries of conflict and redrawing borders across Europe, a handful of tiny duchies, kingdoms, and countries remain that resemble Grand Fenwick. These include Luxembourg, Lichtenstein, Andorra, Monaco, and yes — San Marino.
San Marino is the third-smallest state in Europe (after the Holy See and Monaco), measuring only 24 square miles. It boasts a population of just 34,000 people. It is located in (and surrounded by) north-central Italy, about six miles from the Adriatic coast.
It is considered the oldest surviving constitutional republic in the world. San Marino was founded by a Christian stonemason named MARINUS in 301 A.D. Interestingly, their principal natural resource today is still building stone!
Visitors can see immediately how San Marino managed to remain independent for so many centuries. The “old town” fortress of Guaita sits atop the peak of Monte Titano, 2,300 feet above the surrounding countryside with sheer cliffs on three sides. Two other peaks (Cesta and Montale), each with its own well-guarded towers, also offer a powerful natural defensive posture.
San Marino was annexed and occupied by the Papal States in the 17th and 18th centuries, but regained independence in 1740. Clever diplomacy allowed them to avoid the threat of Napoleon’s army in 1797 and the unification of Italy in the 19th century. San Marino maintained neutrality during both World War I and World War II, although it suffered German occupation and some Allied bombing as a result in 1944.
San Marino’s system of government is unique. They have a dual chief-of-state arrangement known as the Captains Regent. The two individuals are elected by the Grand and General Council (a 60-member unicameral parliament) and are traditionally chosen from opposing political parties. They preside over the Grand and General Council (parliament) and Congress of State (executive branch), but do not have a vote. They act jointly on principles of impartiality and distribution of power.
The two leaders are limited to six-month terms with a minimum of three years between terms. At the end of their term, they are subject to a formal review of any citizen complaints of misconduct or unconstitutional acts. All of this for a population only slightly larger than Chaska! Can you imagine the chaos of a 60-member City Council, especially one headed by leaders from opposing parties?
The other thing that sets San Marino apart is the view from the top of Mount Titano, which offers breathtaking vistas of the Italian countryside in every direction. Delightful shops, restaurants, museums and cafes offer a welcome break from navigating the stairs from one peak to the next.
San Marino can be done as a day trip by car from Siena or by train from Bologna. You can easily drive up a series of switchbacks and park near the top to minimize stair climbing.
If you find yourself at the base of Mount Titano and don’t have a vehicle, there is a gondola offering fabulous views and a considerably easier way up.
The unique political landscape, colorful history, and raw beauty of San Marino spark the imagination. It is like a quirky microcosm of Europe — an imposing mountaintop fortress, fiercely independent and able to withstand every force thrown its way. Not so dissimilar from the Duchy of Grand Fenwick.
