Wanderlust and Well-Being: Iconic Places — The Galápagos Islands


If your idea of wildlife is umbrella drinks at Señor Frog’s in Los Cabos, perhaps the Galápagos are not for you.

But, if your idea of wildlife is swimming with sea lions, or wandering among wild albatross, blue-footed boobies, lizards and turtles on a remote beach in the Pacific Ocean, then the Galápagos might be just what you are looking for.

The Galápagos are an Ecuadorian territory located roughly 600 miles west of South America, right along the equator. The islands are geologically active, with a half dozen significant volcanic eruptions occurring over the last 20 years.

This incredible volcanic activity results in highly varied terrain from island to island. Some islands boast windswept, barren calderas and fresh lava flows, while others are covered in grasslands or desert shrubs. Most tourists who visit the Galápagos travel by ship, as only four of the 127 islands are inhabited.

Cool volcanic rocks are not the main attraction, however. It’s the critters.

Rare and unique birds, mammals and reptiles abound in an environment where they have never learned to fear humans. Visitors can wander through albatross nesting grounds or swim with sea lions. Nature enthusiasts (especially photographers) relish the opportunity to observe these animals closely in their natural habitat.

The most fascinating aspect of these creatures is the startling variations in how they evolved from one island to the next, shaped by each place’s unique characteristics. Charles Darwin’s observation of this phenomenon during his 1837 visit to the Galápagos led to his publication of “On the Origin of Species” in 1859. This work was revolutionary at the time and continues to shape scientific thinking about evolution and biology to this day.

The most famous example of natural selection observable on the Galápagos is Darwin’s Finches. The islands are far enough apart that finches with a common ancestor developed traits based on the available food sources on each island.

On some islands, ground finches evolved with large, blunt beaks that allow them to crack open hard seeds and nuts found on the ground. On islands with cacti but not much in the way of seeds, tree finches evolved with longer, more pointed beaks that allow them to feed on cactus nectar. Warbler finches have developed a small, slender, pointed beak for eating small insects and spiders.

Galápagos turtles are another example. They descended from a common ancestor and can be found throughout the island chain. On islands with sparse vegetation, turtles are smaller and have evolved long necks that allow them to reach food sources higher up in trees, bushes or cacti. On islands with abundant, low-lying grasses and vegetation, the turtles are larger and have short necks. Long necks were not an evolutionary advantage, so they never developed.

Natural selection can also be seen in the Galápagos lava lizard populations throughout the islands. Where food is plentiful, the lizards are bigger. Islands with dark lava fields produce lizards with darker coloration. The presence or absence of predators (such as hawks) affects both behavior and coloration from one island to the next.

Most visitors to the Galápagos reach the islands by flying through Quito and/or Guayaquil, Ecuador. Many tour operators offer package deals that allow you to sail from island to island and hike with experienced guides. The island chain is large and spread out enough that you can’t see it all in a week. Tour operators adapt their itinerary seasonally to optimize your experience.

Ecuador recognizes the value of this unique ecosystem and encourages ecologically sensitive, respectful, low-impact tourism. If you love natural history, a visit to the Galápagos is worth the effort.

Señor Frog’s can wait.

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